10 years ago, skincare products were much simpler. I only have cleanser, toner and also moisturizer which people called cream. The extra products that I have would be sunblock I guess. Fast forward ten years and we have so many products out there in the market until I can’t even differentiate what is essence, serum , lotion, cream and even booster! One day I was looking at my aunt skincare products and asked her what is the differences between essence and cream but I didn't get the exact answer that I want! Some would just tell me to put it after toner or something. I got confused with so many things to put and I usually use mixture of brands and products. I was so lost with all these skincare products terms.
So, today I am just going to share the meaning of those products in layman term. Hopefully, it will be of help to you =).
Okay, let’s start with the most difficult one
1. TONER/MIST/SKIN REFINER/SKIN BALANCER/SOFTENER/LOTION(Japanese toner)
Okay, this is as the name suggested they are actually toner. While products in western countries are known as toner,
Korean name their toner as Mist/toner/ Skin Refiner/ Skin balancer/ Skin hydrator/lotion . For examples, Laneige Skin Refiner, ELISHACOY Skin Repairing Snail Skin Lotion
[COSRX] AHA / BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner
Klairs supple preparation facial toner
Japanese on the other hand name their toner lotion or softener. For example, Kose Sekkisei lotion and Shiseido softener.
Western toner is so much easier to understand. It will always end with the word toner. For examples Biotherm micro exfoliating purifying toner.
Basically, all the texture in this categories are watery just like water. Those hydrating ones can be just sprayed on the face. Most Japanese lotion can be use on compressed mask sheets and used as sheet masks.
Western toners are usually those clarifying one where you will use the cotton pad to swipe across the face. It can't be use as mask !
Western and Asian toner are not the same although it is usually use after cleaning (There is some certain products that the toner or lotion are used as 3rd products because of adding the booster) .
There is a difference between how western and Asian toner are used so do not assume that Asian lotion and Western toner are the same.
Mist- Mist are actually water that contains cooling properties and much like very light moisturiser. Depending on the nozzle, how fine the mist is really depending on it. It is mostly in bottle and Korean or Asian usually carry this to just spray on the face when it is hot or they feel dry without touching our face. It is most use in summer. Melvita Organic Beauty Mist
Updated on 3/10/2014: Now there is even western toner written as lotion so do be careful and check the description before using them.
2. ESSENCE, SERUM, AMPOULE
Ampoule also contains high concentration of ingredients target for specific purpose. They are more expensive than serum. This is because ampoule contains the lightest texture, penetrate into the skin faster and provide the fastest results within a short time. Normally, hydrating or makeup ampoules are use by the makeup artist for a bridal wedding to make the makeup last long. There are also many types of ampoules and they are generally in form of vial to avoid the highly reactive ingredients get oxidized by the air. So, it also penetrate very fast. For example:
MELVITA NECTAR BRIGHT BRIGHTENING CONCENTRATE
La belle acnex ampoule
Serum contain higher concentration of ingredients than essence. It also target specific skin concern. Therefore they are more expensive than essence. Serums also contain thicker texture than essence. There are many types of serum ranging from anti-aging capsules serum, pore tightening serum and brightening serum. Some serum are oil based and some are water based. Oil based serum means it is in oil form because they contain very UV ingredients such as Vitamin C or retinol and effect might disappear if put in water. There is also water based serum which works well too.
clarins multi active skin renewal serum ,
Klairs rich moisture soothing serum
Antipodes Worship Superfruit Antioxidant Serum
C20(OST) PURE VITAMIN 21.5 ADVANCED SERUM
Essence contains concentrate of ingredients for specific purposes. It is the least concentrate among ampoule and serum.
For example, whitening essence to brighten the face, pore control essence to control the pore and skin repairing essence. Essence are generally watery and light so don't mistake it with toner. Some are called treatment water but it is actually essence. For examples,Melvita brightening essence , Loreal treatment water, Cremorlab Mineral Treatment Essence and the most famous SKII facial treatment essence aka miracle water.
There are some essence that is oil based like this Shills Mandelic Acid essence because it contains acid.
The level of concentrate ingredients from the highest one would be ampoule > serum> essence .
The level of texture from the lightest one would be essence > ampoule > serum
You could check this post Here to know if you need essence or serum.
3. LOTION, CREAM, EMULSION& GEL
Okay, Korean lotion is actually their light moisturizer.
Japanese lotion means it is toner.Example of Japanese lotion would be the Kose Sekkisei Lotion
Emulsion is a light moisturizer. Mostly people with combination skin or oily skin would choose emulsion because of the lighter texture but still provide the moisture needed. Normally it is water based. Kose Sekkisei emulsion
Cream is thicker containing more oil inside as it provides more oil for those with dry skin or for usage during winter. There are many type of creams for examples whitening, anti-aging, hydrating and for acne.
Klairs moist soothing cream
Egyptian magic cream,
skin shop premium secret snail vital mucin cream,
decleor hydra floral moisturising cream,
MARY COHR LIGHT MOISTURISING CREAM
Gel moisturizers usually contain humectants like silicone or gylerin for oily skin. Gel is also lighter than cream and emulsion. Some like it for the fresh texture. Examples of gel would be Neutrogena Hydra Boost water gel.
4. BOOSTER
Booster is something that is put before the serum/essence to boost the efficiency of the essence/serum. The texture is generally very light and you will notice that the skincare penetrate into the skin much faster than if you are not using booster. The sequence to use booster for Korean and Western is also different depending on your toner (korean or western toner)
Examples of booster would be Dr. Jart V7 Booster and Dermalogica booster.
5.FLORAL WATER
Most people would find this confusing whether it is a toner, a booster or a moisturiser. For me, it is just like the name suggested- water infused with flowers. One can use this as toner, mist or even moisturiser. It is really just like water, it can calm the skin and moisturise the skin as it contain glycerine. However, it is not enough to moisturiser the skin during winter. One of the famous one would be the Melvita Narcissus extraordinary water, Melvita Extraordinary water and Heaven on Earth Lavendar Floral water.
MELVITA ORGANIC ROSE BEAUTY MIST
6.FINISHER
Okay, In September 2014 there is already the skin finisher which means to be a skincare products which makes the skin looks glow to the point of flawless. It's called a skin finisher because it goes on last (over toner, serums/essence/ and moisturisers) and before your cc cream or foundation. It is used during the day. It can comes in form or spray or bottle. There are hair finisher but this finisher is for skin and it is already a rave in Korea. Skin finisher is NOT A PRIMER NOR it is a MAKEUP because the skin finisher seal all the good things about your skincare products into your skin making it super flawless. According to them, skin finisher is the key to have amazingly dewy skin flawless skin. Examples of skin finisher would be Sulwhasoo Luminate Essential Finisher, Su:m miracle finisher and many more.
7. PEELING GEL
Peeling gel is actually exfoliator for sensitive skin which is much more gentle than scrubs. Generally, Korean prefer peeling gel because it helps to exfoliate the skin without the harshness and peeling gel can immediately brighten the skin. Normally, it is use before using a sheet mask for best effect.
UGB peeling gel
I think generally that is what I know about the current type of skincare products in the market. The list is sure going to be long and I will update this from time to time.
There is even that jelly, pudding and more texture coming out in the market every second so I know it is going to be more and more confusing next time. Even the vocabulary list for skincare products are just going longer. =P Do forgive me or correct me if I had made any mistake in writing this as I wrote it base on my common experience in skincare .
I hope that it will help you in making choices for your skincare products.
Here is another link that you might find useful on the products above.
Sequence of all the products usage
Differences about all sort of face masks
How to effectively use essence, serum and ampoule
Differences about all the skincare cleansers
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